Dogs Need to Have Their Own Space

Dogs Need to Have Their Own Space

I have four brothers and sisters, all in very close age range of each other. Until I was in high school, I shared a room with my older sister, who is a year and a half older than me. I remember the little spaces I would find in the room we shared where I could hide out even just for a short time. Sometimes I would move things around in the closet and build a small hideaway with my desk chair and a blanket from my bed. Sometimes I would put a blanket over my desk and hide out under the desk, reading my newest book from the library or writing in my diary with a flashlight. Sometimes, I would do nothing. Just try to be still and be quiet. To this day I remember those precious spaces and others I found and designed in the house when I was too young to leave on my own. When I got older, I found places of refuge from a chaotic household outside in parks and other places. 

These thoughts come back to me when living in an apartment with two dogs plus other animals. Even now, I establish certain spots that are off limits to the dogs, like the bathroom and the kitchen. I used to have the bed off limits, but my dog, Scout, slowly took that over. The kitchen has strict restrictions for safety reasons in case I happen to be holding a hot pot of water. I eat a lot of pasta. 

I firmly believe that your dog also needs to have spots all to themselves that are off limits to humans and other pets. I have found my dogs going to these spots all by themselves when they want to rest or just get away from the commotion in the house. Some examples of types of favorite spaces that work well for apartments are crates or kennels, either with or without a door, allowing the dog free access as they choose. 

Another idea is to give your dog its own bed and put it in a spot that will remain consistent. One benefit of having a portable bed is that it can be taken with you if the dog boards at a kennel, travels with you in a motel, or stays with family and friends. Having this bed gives your dog a consistent, safe spot he can always turn to in any kind of environment. 

You can also designate a piece of furniture like a chair or under a table, and have the dog’s bed in that location. If you choose a piece of furniture, it should be furniture that is no longer being used by the humans in the house. It should always be there for the dog, and not have the bed move from one place to another when somebody wants to use that furniture. 

Exercise is Important for Your Dog’s Health

Exercise is Important for Your Dog’s Health

Give your dog physically stimulating exercises.

Dogs need exercise, just like people. Your dog’s daily exercise requirement will vary depending on your dog’s breed, age, health and overall activity level. How do you determine how much exercise your dog needs?  

Dog breeds are grouped together by what they were originally bred to do. Some dogs were bred to hunt animals, some were bred to herd animals, some were bred to pull large sleds or wagons, and even some were bred to fight other animals. Many dogs, generally the smaller lap-type dogs were bred to primarily be companions to people. To determine what your dog’s exercise needs might be, start by looking at the purpose for which your dog’s breed was originally created. If you dog’s breed was originally created for tracking, herding, or transportation of people or goods, then your dog will need a daily amount of vigorous exercise like running, biking and retrieving tennis balls, or a daily romp to the local dog park. On the other hand, if you dog’s breed was to sit in people’s laps and keep their hands warm, then your dog’s daily exercise needs can be taken care by a walk up and down the street or around the block. 

Age:

Young puppy:

From birth to one year, your puppy’s exercise requirements will be unique. From eight weeks to about six months your puppy may appear to have boundless, non-stop energy. However, the length of time that they are engaged in full activity at any one time will be short; suddenly your puppy will flop over and take a rest. If you are available during those times of energy bursts to take them for a walk around the block, and also work on some basic obedience exercises and socialization, your puppy will wear out very fast. Their attention span is very short, but grows a little each day.

Your puppy’s body is growing quickly, so any physical exercise beyond a fast walk should be restricted to avoid any chance of possible injury. These restrictions mean no jogging, jumping, tennis ball or disc catching or jumping onto and off of high objects like playground equipment or walls. 

Young adult:

This age range would be from six months for toy and small breeds up to two years for some of the larger breeds. Exercise should still be limited and controlled, but can be slowly expanded beyond moderate walks. Some puppies belonging to the smaller and lightly boned breeds of up to medium height, whose bodies should be almost fully formed by one year old, can begin light running and jumping and climbing. Regardless of size, it is best to hold off from more demanding exercise like tennis ball and disc dog throws. 

For puppies belonging to the larger and giant breeds it is best to continue walking, light running, and light climbing until after they reach two years, when most of their growth should be complete. Some breeds that benefit from these restrictions include retrievers, draft pullers such as Rottweilers and Bernese Mountain Dogs, Mastiff-related breeds, and the larger herding breeds like German Shepherds. After two years of age, all breeds can handle more activity as it is needed.

Swimming is always a great form of exercise for any breed at almost any age, except for small puppies until they learn to swim. Swimming has universal benefits for all dogs since there is no pounding and grinding on the body like climbing, jumping and retrieving tennis balls. Yet there is still great aerobic exercise for the heart and movement for the limbs with no wear and tear on the joints and bones. Many pet stores or supply catalogs sell life jackets for dogs to wear. These are great for dogs that are not great swimmers or are just learning. 

Middle age adult:

Middle age usually starts around two years for the smaller to medium size breeds and extends to about 10 years. For the larger and giant breeds, middle age starts around three years and goes to about seven or eight years. This stage of life will be the peak activity time for most dogs, and when their exercise needs will remain fairly constant, barring accident. This constant level of demand means that if you have a specific routine of daily walks and going to the dog park on the weekends, and your dog is satisfied and healthy, you could probably keep up this routine unless some unforeseen injury or health reason interferes. Or if you compete in dog sports regularly, and your dog is healthy and happy, you could probably expect to continue that routine for several more years, unless something unforeseen happens. 

Senior adult:

For smaller to medium breeds senior adulthood begins around ten years of age and reaches to at least fifteen or more. For larger or giant breeds, this age range is generally around seven or eight to fewer than fifteen. It is very rare to see a large or giant breed that lives past fifteen years. However, small or medium breed may live up to 20 years.

During this time a dog’s exercise needs will decrease as he or she slows down and the body ages. Most dogs will do fine with a daily walk to slow down arthritis. I would not recommend any kind of hard physical exercise like tennis ball throwing or disc catching. I would like to say, however, my dog Scout continues to catch discs up to the age of 12, but it is much less frequent than she used to. I am extremely aware of that, first, she does not need the exercise, even though she still loves it, and two, her body is much less able to bounce back and mend itself like it used to when she was younger. She also is totally warmed up prior to any jumping or catching of discs and she gets a thorough cool down afterwards.

Health

Your dog’s individual health will determine the amount and type of exercise they will need. If you have any specific questions about your dog’s health and the type of exercise they need, it is best to consult with your dog’s veterinarian before starting exercise. What follows here are some general guidelines that could apply to a broad range of dogs. 

Fitness level:

Does your dog have any past injuries that could prevent or restrict your dog from doing strenuous exercise? Such limitations could also include current injuries that have not yet healed. For example, a broken bone that is no longer in a cast but is not back to full use by your dog might restrict his or her activity. Your dog may be going through physical therapy, or the injured area may have been out of use for so long that the muscles have atrophied, and they will need to be strengthened slowly to regain their full use. For many such injuries, start off with slow walks and very gradually increase the distance. Your dog will tell you if the amount of exercise is sufficient or too much because they will come back sore or in pain if you have done too much. 

Sometimes an injury can be fully healed, yet your dog’s physical condition has been changed permanently. An example of this type of injury that could alter your dog’s physical condition permanently could be a torn cruciate ligament, which is very common type of injury in any dog that retrieves tennis balls or discs or does a lot of twists and turns on their back legs. The cruciate is the ligament that runs diagonal on the knee on both animals and humans. It is a common sports injury for athletes like football, baseball and basketball players. For a dog, surgery can be performed on the knee, but many times the full recuperation is difficult, leaving the dog with less strength and flexibility.

Weight:

Your dog’s weight will determine their current activity level. If your dog is overweight, increased activity, along with a proper diet, will help to decrease your dog’s weight. However, seek the advice of your veterinarian prior to putting your overweight dog suddenly on a new diet and exercise regimen. Your dog’s excess weight could be due to many different health factors, not just lack of activity. Check with your dog’s doctor to determine exactly what is causing your dog’s weight gain and go from there.

Need for Social activity:

Exercise consists of more than just burning calories. Exercise can also be fun, especially if it involves games with you or other dogs. When two dogs play together they can exercise themselves if they are running around chasing each other or playing with a tug toy. My dogs Dino and Scout have a regular game of playing tug with their fabric leashes. When we are out on our walk, usually Dino will look at me with this wide eyed anticipation of “Is it time, yet?” and he jumps up and down trying to grab the leash from my hand. Scout joins in and grabs either her leash or Dino’s leash and the tug game begins. They will do this in all kinds of weather, even if it is raining or snowing. If I have enough time and space, I will let the leashes go from my hand, unhook Dino from his and let them chase each other around and around until one of them gives up. Everybody gets muddy and dirty and has a great time. 

Mind Stimulating Exercises Are Good For Your Dog

All dogs love to play games and learn new things. You can wear out your dog just by exercising his or her mind. A simple way to do this is to teach your dog a variety of tricks that can be practiced and performed in the house with minimal space. Working on learning a new trick just for a few minutes at a time can wear a dog out for several hours. 

There is a variety of books all about teaching dogs tricks, as well as those that teach other simple games that can be done inside or outside. These can be fun things to do with your dog when the weather outside is prohibitive. Since all dogs need to eat, every mealtime can be used to work on an exercise. Break down an exercise or trick to tiny parts, and then each mealtime work on each step. When your dog learns one step, go onto the next. I like to call this dog training for a person who never has enough time in the day. There is always two minutes before a mealtime.  

Remember: A Tired Dog is A Good Dog.

The more you can exhaust your dog, the less time he will have to become bored and anxious which results in barking and destruction. If your dog is so tired when you leave them alone, they will sleep rather than becoming destructive. 

For more information on preventing destructive behaviors:

Chapter Six “Preventing Undesirable or Stopping Certain Behaviors”  

Socializing Your Dog with People, Other Animals and Noises

Socializing Your Dog with People, Other Animals and Noises

It is especially important to socialize your dog when living in an apartment because each time you take your dog out for exercise or to relieve itself, it will automatically come in contact with all kinds of people, animals and sounds in all types of situations. There will be children playing, stray cats, stray dogs, people who are afraid of dogs, loud engines, trash blowing around, and, of course, other dog owners who unabashedly allow their dogs to come right up to yours whether you request them to or not.

Socializing a dog

Whether you get your dog as a puppy, young adult or full grown adult, you need to start socialization as soon as possible. The easiest way to socialize your dog is to make him or her a part of your family. Take your dog with you everywhere you go, to as many places as possible and never stop this good habit. Obviously, there will be certain places where dogs are not allowed or it is not safe, such as a Fourth of July celebration, a Mardi Gras parade, or a large community event with high heat and a lot of noise. If a place or event seems safe and open to you bringing your dog, however, feel free to take him or her with you. You will have endless training opportunities for distractions. 

It is important to be aware of your dog’s temperament when starting to socialize him or her. If you have a dog that has behavioral problems like fear or aggression then you will need to start in quieter areas and build up to these locations, planning to make it eventually to these high distraction places as your goal.

If your dog does not have these issues, and is generally happy and friendly, try taking him downtown for walks, on buses, in cars, to the lake, to dog parks, to the vet office, inside pet stores or any stores that allow dogs, over all kinds of footing like metal, concrete, carpet, grass and sand. Bring your treats, toys, clicker, water and practice on sits, downs, stays, attention, recalls on leash, sitting when being petted, release words, etc. If you make this a life long habit, you will have a confident, social dog that is a joy and pleasure to be around. 

Once your dog is trained and socialized the two of you can go to more places together. The more trained and socialized your dog becomes, the more activities the two of you can participate in together. It is a snowball effect that never ends. For example, when you come across a brand new situation with new distractions that the dog has never seen before, you will already have a trained and social dog that is responsive to all of your training tools. You can ease yourself into the situation rather than allowing your dog to be unsure and fearful. 

Compare your socialized dog to the dog tied in a backyard, fearful and aggressive because his life exists solely in the tiny area that only his eyes can see. If you take that dog outside his comfort zone, outside his backyard, he reacts with pure fear and lashes out and bites or runs away, never being allowed to experience everything life has to offer. 

Another very simple way to socialize your dog is to walk him around your neighborhood. Start walking your dog at least once a day in the beginning, and then about twice a day as you move out to further territories. This kind of activity will allow your dog to see and experience all the normal daily activities that occur outside of his small circle. Your dog will see and eventually meet all kinds of people, bicycles, skateboarders, other animals and experience all kinds of noises and smells. When you are out on your walk make sure you are polite. Carry poop bags with you, as well as water and a collapsible nylon bowl. Don’t forget to bring a big bag of tasty treats and a clicker if you use one.

Do not allow your dog to be afraid when encountering a new experience and do not “reassure” your dog when it appears to be nervous. Both actions will reinforce the unwanted behavior and set your dog up for failure. When you come across a new object, sound or smell, walk with the dog up to the object and encourage him to move closer, rewarding them with a click and a treat with each step closer they take on their own. Do not force your dog by pulling or pushing your dog him towards the object. For example, if you come across a set of wooden stairs that makes your dog startle from a distance, walk slowly up to the object, rewarding them with a click and a treat for each baby step they take towards the object. 

If you hit a threshold where the dog starts to panic or become aggressive and won’t move any closer to the object, stop immediately. Your goals for future training sessions would be to be able to move your dog past this threshold, one step at a time. Each step needs to remain positive and stress free. If you find the dog, once again, become panicky, back the session up to the step just prior until the dog become accustomed to the situation or object that is causing this reaction. Then move on to the next step closer and closer, each step remaining positive. 

Leashes, Collars, Harnesses and Halters Available to Train Your Dog

Leashes, Collars, Harnesses and Halters

Available to Train Your Dog

A wide variety of leashes, collars, harnesses and halters are available to help you train your dog. Go into any pet store, and the choices can make you dizzy and broke. Here, these items have been broken down into two categories: specifically used for training and generally not used for training. Some items may crisscross categories. For example, many people use a chain collar as the dog’s primary collar, although this practice is not recommended for safety reasons. However, the chain collar was primarily developed as a training collar. And many people use a flat buckle collar as a training tool for a very sensitive and soft dog, but generally it is used as a primary collar to hold tags and sometimes be decorative. 

Collars:

Collars Used for training

Chain or Choke Collars:

A chain collar is a single piece of chain in various lengths and link sizes depending on the size and strength of the dog. This collar used to be a very popular tool for training, though, in recent times, with the awareness of more positive methods, the use of a chain collar in dog training has decreased dramatically. 

This collar is dangerous if used as an everyday collar to carry tags or to use while a dog is tied up, which I don’t recommend. If your dog becomes caught on an object or decides to jump a fence your dog can literally choke themselves and die a terrible death. 

Never, ever, leave a dog unattended wearing a chain collar.

Personally, I would wish that a chain collar would become illegal to use. They are only a danger to any dog that wears one. I was an animal control officer for three years, and I remember two cases I personally responded to where a dog jumped a fence wear a chain collar. Neither dog survived their ordeal and both died horrible deaths. 

Pinch, Prong or Force Collars:

A pinch collar is a type of training collar that uses many individual “prongs” with flat tips linked together applying pressure consistently to the neck when pulled, compared to the chain collar that pinches on a single spot on the neck. A pinch collar should never be left on a dog that is unattended. If the collar gets caught on something the dog could choke to death. 

Most commonly, the pinch collar is used on a dog that pulls and lunges. The applied pressure is intended to stop the dog from pulling and lunging. This type of collar has a “Martingale” type of design.

Head Halters:

This looks like a halter used on a horse. The idea is to gently guide the direction of the head, which, in turn, would guide the direction of the body. Halters are commonly used for dogs that are very strong and pull. I have also seen them used on dogs that are dog aggressive to control lunging and to convey to the dog a sense of control by the handler. I believe that when a halter is used on a dog that is aggressive that behavior modification training must also be used to change the behavior. The halter won’t fix the problem alone. It acts as a tool toward an end.

Never leave the head halter on an unattended dog. They can easily get it off. These are only to be used for walks. I use halters on my dogs because they are strong and pull, and the halters make it easier for me to walk many dogs at once. I leave them attached to the leash when they are off the dogs, so I know where they are all the time. 

Warning:

If you come from a background where you learned yanking and pulling at your dog’s neck with the use of a chain collar or pinch collar, you can not use this method with a head halter. You may do damage to your dog’s neck if the dog is pulled wearing a halter. The halter is only used to gently guide and direct, not to pull the dog around. If unsure how to use the halter properly, make sure you work with a trainer who is familiar with its use. Properly used, it is a wonderful tool to control strong dogs with very little effort. 

Collars Not Used for Training Purposes:

Buckle Collar:

This comes in many forms and colors and styles. They may be nylon or leather. Whatever the design, all the collars have buckles as their attachments. Generally these are the dog’s primary collar used to attach a leash to or hold tags. 

Quick Release Collar:

The only difference between a quick release collar and a buckle collar is the attachment. Based on the name, a Quick Release attachment is plastic and can quickly release the collar by pinching two sides of the plastic piece together. They can be used as a dog’s primary collar to attach a leash or hold tags.

When I worked in a doggie daycare company, only quick release collars were allowed in the playgroups because if two dogs got tangled together by their collars, the handler could quickly remove the offending collar. If a buckle collar is worn, more time is needed to release the collar. 

The only drawback I have with the Quick Release collars I have found is that for a strong dog that pulls, sometimes the plastic attachment is not strong enough and can separate unexpectedly. If you have a dog that pulls and you need a collar to hold tags, I would recommend a buckle collar. 

Martingale Collar:

A Martingale collar is an interesting collar. It is a form of a mild choke collar patterned after the pinch collar in design, except there are no prongs. The Martingale is all flat material, commonly decorative nylon, although it can also be made of chain. When the collar is pulled on with the leash, the collar tightens around the dog’s neck, but the pressure is designed to be very light. These collars are good for a dog that needs a very light control. 

These are also good for a dog that possibly might back out of their collar from fear or stress. The collar will tighten up around the neck when pulled without applying any pain or discomfort which could freak out a dog that is already freaked out by something that is causing them to try to back out of their collar. 

These collars should not be left on a dog while unattended due to the constriction around the dog’s neck that occurs, nor should they be used as everyday collars to hold tags. They do, however, have use as walking collars for a dog that needs very light control. 

Leads

Nylon leads and Leather leads:

These leads are most commonly used as everyday walking leads. They are usually either four or six feet. Nylon is less expensive and comes in a lot of nice colors and designs. Leather is more expensive and is usually black or brown. The primary difference between them when walking a dog is that leather is softer on your hands and nylon has the potential to burn if pulled through your hands unexpectedly. Both are very strong, however, the thickness of the leash should be matched to the size of your dog. Less than ½ inch is best for dogs less than 40 pounds, and wider than ½ inch should be for dogs over 40 pounds. Other than that, I would recommend either nylon or leather, depending on your budget and desire for color. 

Retractable leads:

Everybody has different opinions on these leashes. Some people love them and others absolutely despise them. 

These leashes are extendable and usually corded and can move in and out of the handle on a wheel. There is a break and a lock on the handle to control the dog’s distance. Some go up to 15 feet in distance while others can extend 25 feet. They are basically a long line that doesn’t sag. They are good to give your dog a bit of freedom from a six or four foot leash in areas where that is appropriate like a field or large park. This option is much better than letting your dog off leash if you don’t have voice control. The down fall is when that distance is too much to walk a dog, such in a crowded location or an urban environment where there are a lot of people and other dogs close by. Many cities don’t allow the retractable leash for this reason. There is a loss of control as a dog gets further and further away. 

Harnesses

Regular Walking Harnesses:

These harnesses are the most common type of harness used to walk a dog. The basic design goes across the chest or as a V shaped through the front legs so as to make it comfortable for a dog to pull. Many people switch to these if the dog they are walking pulls and lunges on a flat collar. I have also seen these used on dogs with throat or neck injuries or many small dogs that have delicate tracheas or a lot of loose skin on their necks like Pugs and Bulldogs. 

These are also used to restrain a dog in the back of a truck to prevent them from jumping out or being thrown out. I would highly recommend this rather than allowing a dog to be loose in the back, which is very dangerous to the dog and passing traffic if the dog becomes a road hazard when falling out.

No Pull Harnesses:

A No Pull Harness is exactly as the name implies. This type of harness is similar to the idea of a head halter, which pulls the dog backwards when the dog moves forward, thus preventing the dog from pulling. The front of the harness is similar in design to a Martingale collar, a piece of material that constricts against the chest. The leash attaches to a snap in the front of the chest and when the dog pulls forward the leash pulls backwards and to either side depending on where the handler is. 

Although these harnesses are certainly better than regular ones, and much better than using a flat collar for a dog that pulls, the backwards pull it creates on the dog is minimal for a big strong dog that still wants to go forward. For a lightweight dog with a minimal pulling problem, these would probably work. For a larger, stronger, more determined dog, they don’t work. In that case, I would recommend a head halter for a large, strong or determined dog. 

Types of dog training methods

Types of dog training methods

Most beginner and novice dog owners don’t shop around for training methods when looking for a trainer. Many, if not most people, even many advanced dog owners, don’t know that more than one type of training method exists. In general, people use and adopt a certain type of training method, along with the equipment that is needed for that method that is introduced to them with their first dog. Many times, they stick with that particular method thinking that is all that is available. Up until around 1990, this was all true.

As a little girl growing up in Daly City in the 1970’s, I would buy the books available at the neighborhood bookstore, or rent them from the library, that talked about dog training. The common training method at that time, and for many, many years before that, was a chain collar and a thick leather leash, no matter if you had a Chihuahua or a St. Bernard. One method existed for all dogs. Period. Every book on dog training explained in detail how to properly put a chain collar on a dog and how to hold the leash to deliver the optimum “correction” to the dog. The authors explained in detail that I should listen for the “singing” of the chain collar as I gave the proper snap and release of the collar. What horrible things we did to our dogs! Learning theory was described by the authors that a dog will do what you tell it to or it will receive a “correction” from the collar. So the dog learns to do the right thing or else!

This specific method would work for very few dogs. The dogs that did not respond to this method were considered untrainable, and then more harsh methods were used on these dogs. The common belief held was that these dogs had been given the opportunity to learn the right way, and refused, so they deserved what they got in the form of beatings, shocks, hangings, yelling, isolation and torture. 

I saw this first hand when I worked as an assistant trainer for a dog training company in the mid 1980’s in Oakland following high school. The dogs that did not respond to the training methods used by this company were thrown against walls, hung up by leashes with their chain collars, tied to tiny tie-downs in three sided boxes, shocked with electronic collars and whipped with leashes, all in an effort to make the dog obedient, which is what the owners were paying for. This company also trained personal protection dogs for the public where they used similar types of harsh and violent methods to force the dog to act and respond to the agitator. 

When I questioned the methods the trainers were using and asked why less violent options were not used, I was told I would never make it as a trainer because I was not willing to tell the dog who was boss. I was moved out of the training program and moved into their chain of retail stores as a clerk. One of the owners once told me that I was being disobedient, and that his dog behaved better than me. I was eventually fired from the company after over three years because I was told I was unable to fit into the requirements of being an employee. 

When you are deciding upon a trainer and a training method or methods for your dog, keep some key questions in mind. 

Are you and your dog progressing along the intended path of the class? 

Do you feel that your dog is learning new things? 

Does your dog feel willing to learn by these methods?

Is your dog happy about attending class? 

Are you interested in attending the class each week? 

Is the effort you and your dog are putting into the class each week worth the extra time, money and effort? 

Are their dogs well behaved? 

Do they apply the same methods to their dogs that they are teaching you? 

If the methods the trainer suggests don’t work for your dog, or if you are having difficulty executing these methods, can they recommend another way of achieving the same results? 

Is the trainer patient and persistent and helpful and friendly? 

Can you ask questions in class or after class to help clarify some points the trainer has made?

Is the trainer willing to work one-on-one with you if you need the extra attention?

The best trainers are great people trainers as well as dog trainers. They understand that they need to teach you how to work with your dog. There are trainers who are like this. Be persistent in your search and be kind to your dog. You will find them!

Here is an overview of some of the training methods that are still being used and practiced today. I wish I could say they all want the same results in the end, but they don’t. Some want pure obedience and to have the dog “do as they are told.” Most of these methods apply force and pain. While others want the dog to be happy and willing to do what they are being asked to do. These methods give the dog the choice to do what they are being asked, and reward them when they do the proper action being asked of them. These methods also teach the dog the consequences of their actions if they choose not the follow along by withholding something the animal wants, like food, or to play. It is a difference between force and no force. In one, the owner is the “master.” In another, the owner is a leader. One treats the dog as if they have no soul, mind or conscience. The other assumes the dog has a choice to their own destination and teaches them how to achieve that. 

Classical Conditioning and Operant Conditioning

(see separate blog post of this subject.)

Chain or choke collar and a leash:

This training method uses a short, sharp jerk on the dog’s neck when the dog fails to perform the command that it has been given. The jerk and release of the slip collar, typically made of chain or fabric, is a form of “positive punishment;” that is, it the application of the collar is intended to discourage the dog from continuing its behavior, which is not doing the command. The dog will then attempt to avoid this “correction” and perform the behavior asked of them the next time the trainer asks for it. 

Prong, force or pinch collar:

A pinch collar is a type of training collar that uses many individual “prongs” with flat tips linked together applying pressure consistently to the neck when pulled, compared to the chain collar that pinches on a single spot on the neck. 

Most commonly, the pinch collar is used on a dog that pulls and lunges. The applied pressure is intended to stop the dog from pulling and lunging. This type of collar has a “Martingale” type of design. A pinch collar should never be left on a dog that is unattended. If the collar gets caught on something the dog could choke to death. 

Personally, I am not a fan of these collars either because this training method is still to use pressure and pain and discomfort to get a dog to do something, which is to not pull or control their direction.

Electronic collars:

There are three types of electronic collars:  “bark” collars, “shock” collars and vibration collars.

“Bark” collars, look like a regular nylon collar, except there is a small box attached to the collar. Underneath the box are prongs where the electric currents are delivered to the dog, somewhere on the neck. A “bark” collar is worn to stop the dog from barking by issuing shocks whenever the dog barks. The collar is activated automatically by the dog’s barking. 

An electronic training collar is activated by the owner by a handheld device the owner carries. Like the chain or choke collar described above, the electronic shock is used as a punishment to teach the dog to avoid the shock by stopping inappropriate behaviors they are doing. When the dog offers behaviors the trainer doesn’t want, the dog receives a shock. If the dog does the correct thing the owner is asking, he receives no shock. 

A vibration collar is used for deaf dogs. There is no shock involved, just a mild vibration to get the dog’s attention. The dog is taught to look at the owner when the vibration occurs. The vibration is not intended as something for the dog to avoid, just to get their attention. 

Use of food:

Food is used in a variety of different types of methods. It can be used as a reward or as a lure to move the dog into position and then give them the food when the correct action is taken. Food is a fabulous reward because all animals have to eat. You can use their daily meals as a reward during the training session. You can use a tasty treat or any other type of food the animal loves. The problem I have seen when using food exclusively, and no other types of rewards or variable reward schedules, is that the animal becomes solely dependent on the food, and won’t do anything unless the food is offered. Food should be used along with a variety of other rewards that the animal wants like playing with a toy or their owner or another dog. Each situation is different and calls for a different reward. You dog will become more reliable if you vary the type of reward and when they receive it, called a variable reward schedule. 

Clicker Training:

Clicker training got its start when training marine mammals for shows and tricks. It eventually found its way to companion animals, and has since spread like wildfire to be applied to all animals for almost all circumstances. The basis of clicker training is that the click or sound is used as a “mark” to indicate the exact moment the animal is doing something correct. Following the click is a reward, which typically consists of food. This type of training has been instrumental in allowing trainers to teach individual behaviors, eventually stringing them together, building upon them one by one and shaping the animals actions into a single outcome. For example, the clicker was used to teach dolphins in water shows how to jump through hoops, catch a ball and bring it back and teach a whale how to make a huge splash that falls into the audience. These were all individual behaviors taught one at a time, then put together by the trainer to appear as a single motion. It can also successfully used to teach a sit, a sit-stay and then a sit-stay out of sight, each action building upon the previous action until a single exercise is performed. This process is called “chaining,” which can be used to teach even very complex behaviors.

As I child I learned that the use of a chain collar and leash was how to train dogs. Eventually, I learned about the other, non-violent methods. I have chosen to stay with the idea that all animals have a soul, mind and a choice in their destination. I have decided my job in life is to guide them along that path. 

Your dog is happiest when he knows what to expect

This occurs when firm, fair and consistent training and leadership is part of your dog’s daily life. Maintain open communication and feedback from your dog. 

Classical Conditioning and Operant Conditioning

Classical Conditioning and Operant Conditioning

There are two primary classifications of animal learning:  
Classical Conditioning and Operant Conditioning. These classifications of learning theory also apply to humans, not just animals.

Classical Conditioning (also Pavlovian or Respondent Conditioning) is a form of associative learning that was first demonstrated by Ivan Pavlov. The typical procedure for inducing classical conditioning involves presentations of a neutral stimulus along with a stimulus of some significance. The neutral stimulus could be any event that does not result in an overt behavioral response from the organism under investigation. Pavlov referred to this as a Conditioned Stimulus (CS). 

For example, when you smell a favorite food, you may start to feel hungry. The smell of the food is the unconditioned stimulus. 

Conversely, presentation of the significant stimulus necessarily evokes an innate, often reflexive, response. Pavlov called these the Unconditioned Stimulus (US) and Unconditioned Response (UR), respectively

For example, the feeling of hunger in response to the smell of food is the unconditioned response.

 If the CS and the UR are repeatedly paired, eventually the two stimuli become associated and the animal begins to produce a behavioral response to the CS. Pavlov called this the Conditioned Response (CR).

For example, when you smelled your favorite food, you simultaneously heard the sound of a bell. The bell is unrelated to the smell of the food, but if the sound of the bell was paired many times with the smell of the food, the sound of the bell eventually would trigger the conditioned response. In this case, the sound of the bell is the conditioned stimulus.

Operant conditioning is the use of consequences to modify the occurrence and form of behavior. "Consequences" in this context, means to connect certain responses with certain stimuli. Operant conditioning is distinguished from classical conditioning in that operant conditioning deals with the modification of "voluntary behavior" or operant behavior. Operant behavior "operates" on the environment and is maintained by its consequences, while classical conditioning deals with the conditioning of respondent behaviors which are elicited by antecedent conditions. Behaviors conditioned via a classical conditioning procedure are not maintained by consequences.

Reinforcement is a consequence that causes a behavior to occur with greater frequency. 

Punishment is a consequence that causes a behavior to occur with less frequency. 

Extinction is the lack of any consequence following a behavior. When a behavior is inconsequential, producing neither favorable nor unfavorable consequences, it will occur with less frequency. When a previously reinforced behavior is no longer reinforced with either positive or negative reinforcement, it leads to a decline in the response. 

Four contexts of operant conditioning

Here the terms "positive" and "negative" are not used in their popular sense, but rather: "positive" refers to addition, and "negative" refers to subtraction. What is added or subtracted may be either reinforcement or punishment. Hence positive punishment is sometimes a confusing term, as it denotes the addition of punishment (such as spanking or an electric shock), a context that may seem very negative in the lay sense. The four procedures are:

Positive reinforcement occurs when a behavior (response) is followed by a favorable stimulus (commonly seen as pleasant) that increases the frequency of that behavior. In the Skinner box experiment, a stimulus such as food or sugar solution can be delivered when the rat engages in a target behavior, such as pressing a lever. 

Negative reinforcement occurs when a behavior (response) is followed by the removal of an aversive stimulus (commonly seen as unpleasant) thereby increasing that behavior's frequency. In the Skinner box experiment, negative reinforcement can be a loud noise continuously sounding inside the rat's cage until it engages in the target behavior, such as pressing a lever, upon which the loud noise is removed. 

Positive punishment occurs when a behavior (response) is followed by an aversive stimulus, such as introducing a shock or loud noise, resulting in a decrease in that behavior. 

Negative punishment occurs when a behavior (response) is followed by the removal of a favorable stimulus, such as taking away a child's toy following an undesired behavior, resulting in a decrease in that behavior. 

(permission to reprint through Wikipedia on Operant Conditioning)